about clipper problems there are some helpful
procedures further down this screen so scroll on down. There are also articles in the "Articles I've written" tab to help you with other clipper problems and issues.You are
certainly welcome to email me (email@example.com) or call about your problem clipper (610 683-5175)
Sharpening can repair, fix or service Oster, Andis, Conair*, Laube and Wahl
clippers for the grooming, salon and barber shop businesses. Parts for most common models are stocked here. Clippers
(or buzzers as some call them) are cleaned, brushes checked, hinge and latches are checked, lubrication is done, cords
are checked for shorts, opens or frayed unsafe conditions. Blade drives on Andis or lever & links on Osters are replaced.
Armatures and electronic switch boards are checked. Some parts for older clipper models are still available in limited
quantity. I keep some here. Some vintage armatures can be rewound for a high
cost but if you have a sentimental attachment this might be a choice for some. Some parts for Oster A2, model 10 and progienic
clippers are available still. I have some old refurbished A2 blades if you need some.
Note that there are limited parts available for some Wahl clippers but all the parts for Arco, Switchblade, KM series are readily available. Call or email me to go over your problem if I can't help you then you may have to send back to Wahl.
I stock all the parts for Andis Master clippers. The plug in power
cords are no longer made and there is a limited quanity available. The wire in power cords are readily avalable here. If you can't find a cord for your plug in Andis Master I can modify your Old Andis Master
to use a wired cord instead of the no longer available plug in cord. Several inexpensive parts ($19) are needed and the labor
Andis AG, AG2, AGC, Ultraedge, SMC, and similar parts are all in stock here
for servicing your clipper.
Most trimmer type clippers
are marginal to repair due to their lower initial cost and the labor time to service. Call and ask have your brand and model
# available so I can check if parts are available and worth the effort and cost to service. Blade sharpening is easily done.
service and most parts are available here. I can replace your broken laube case (housing), repair a bad wire in the
cord, replace noisy bearings, install a new brush cartridge, replace a bad hinge and so on. Laube has a 5 year electrical
motor parts warranty so if you have a motor problem and the clipper is still under the warranty period send
your clipper to Laube for least costly service, if not the quickest! Laube motors are expensive complared to other
brands but a lot cheaper than a new Laube. A problem with older Laube cases cracking near the drive screw area
is common. According to Laube this is due in part to the use of Kool Lube spray getting onto the housing. Note that Kool Lube or similar "cooling"
products should only be sprayed on the back (the part that touches the animal) part of the blade, not the
front or into the clipper or on the clipper body. These cracks can be severe enough that the entire front of
the clipper falls apart in little pieces. I have a photo of one that did that while sitting
on my work bench! Laube now only supplies Yellow replacement
me a call or email me (firstname.lastname@example.org) to see if I can help with your Laube problem.
When sending a clipper for repair please
put a note on it or in the box about what is wrong or what service is required. This is especially important
on intermittent problems. Let me know if is making unusual noise, was dropped, won't hold a blade, is intermittent,
or whatever the problem or service request is. If you tend to stick your clippers on a shelf when they are no longer working
correctly, take the time to write down what occurred and wrap a note around the clipper. This will make my job much easier
and get you the correct service.
* Conair pet grooming clippers are
made in China. They are clones of Oster A5's and Andis AG/AGC style clippers. The Oster
clones often have a problem with the gear and lever steel shafts becoming loose. Once that happens the clipper will no longer
run, or will run slow. The repair is to replace the case, I replace with an Oster case as this is a much more reliable fix.
If the shaft go bad during the warranty period send it to your warranty service center. Keep your paperwork and get a replacement.
Note that the only parts supplier that I know of that carried Conair grooming clipper parts no longer carries Conair parts.
In the future buy other brands - sometimes you get what you pay for!
The newer Oster's A5's have had a problem
with the hinge screws loosening. The fix is to apply lock-tite thread sealant (A.K.A. thread locker) to the cleaned threads.
This will help keep them from loosening. The screw holes goes through into the rear housing where there's a lot of lubricants.
As the screw threads get oil/grease from the inside opening they can loosen from the vibration of running. Tighten the screws
firmly but don't over tighten. I can perform the service here for you for a few dollars if you need. If the hinge screw
brass inserts pull out you may have to have the case replaced with a new one. I can install new inserts that thread in instead
of pressed like Oster uses that will not pull out. The Oster A6 clipper has been out for a while now. Some replacment parts
are available here for them.
For a well done history on the Andis Clipper company you can go here: http://jetsetbarbers.com/history-of-andis-clippers/
Blade rocks front to back,
corn rowing, vibration, rattling. If the rear of the socket becomes raised and the blade can be moved up and down when mounted
on a clipper the rear of the socket has become raised. Use pliers to press
the rear of the socket down as shown in the picture below. Keep the pliers only on the left and right sides not in the middle—you don’t want to create a belly in the metal socket.
Keep checking until the hinge tongue fits snugly without play. If the socket is bent too far down the hinge tongue
won’t fit into the blade. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the socket back up until
the clipper hinge tongue fits snugly without resistance. A raised socket usually comes from a groomer trying to remove a blade
from a clipper with a hinge with a blade latch when they also use the Andis AG clippers that don’t have a blade latch
and the blade just presses off.
Is your Andis clipper running slow or malfunctioning?
Sometimes this is caused by a bad switch electronic board.
Sometimes dropping the clipper can
result in a broken capacitor lead (wire), or both leads breaking and the capacitor
becomes loose - hear a rattle inside your clipper? It could be your
switch or a broken screw post. A bad switch board can sometimes cause an armature to go bad or vice versa,
a bad armature can cause a switch board to also fail. Most all of the problems described here and to the left are the result
of impact to the clipper. Don't drop them! Moisture getting inside can blow your armature,
it may stop running, run erratic or run hot. Keep liquids from getting inside! The improper use of a blade wash can short
an armature. Keep the clipper pointed downward and use a cloth to remove any excess before the clipper is brought upright.
Switchboard photo below.
The Andis Master clipper
generally has few problems but if dropped the blade drive adjuster can be damaged.
This can be easily fixed with a new ball pin which I can do here. The power cord
is another source of occassional issues. If your clipper suddenly stops or pauses
while you are moving the clipper a wire inside the cord has probably broken. It will make contact most of the time but certain
positions will cause it to open and fail. Unfortunately the plug in type ML cords are no longer produced.
Only the wired versions are still available. I can modify your Plug In Old model ML to use a wired cord. The Master motor
is a vibration coil and shunt arm type. The gap of the shunt arm has to be
correct for optimum performance. The small screw on the side adjusts this gap. If you over turn this screw
and the clipper blade no longer goes back and forth the easiest way to get back to the correct position is to remove the top
and move the screw and observe the gap as it opens or closes. Around 1/8 of an inch or so and it should start to run again.
Do this while the blade is on. While you have it open check the tightness of the two screws right at the front top.
These hold the "fork" which the cutter blade attaches to. If these get loose or move you may not have enough cutter
tension against the comb blade to cut or the position of the cutter will be off to one side or the other. Or, you just have
a dull blade and it needs to be sharpened. This covers most of the Master issues. If you have any questions please Email me
at email@example.com. Phone calls are very iffy here - too busy.
|Damaged blade drive
|Good and worn Andis blade drives
Changing an Andis blade drive used in many Andis models
pictures below tell a lot of the story but basically here's what
you do. 1. Unplug the clipper. 2. You will need a #2 Phillips screwdriver
to remove the 4 screws that hold the lower housing to the upper housing. Note that the top
screws are longer than the bottom screws. Turn the clipper over and
remove the upper housing from the lower. The cord will usually stick to the upper housing so separate it. The hanger may become
loose, pay attention. Clean the area by the blade drive and then using a #1 Phillips screwdriver remove the two blade drive screws (turn to left to loosen). Use your finger
nail or small flat blade screwdriver to lift up the old blade drive. Clean the area where the blade drive was. Push the blade drive bearing to it's lowest position and install the new blade drive, the 2
small holes fit over the pins, the tabs fit in the slots and seat the drive fully. Re-install the 2 drive screws (turn screwdriver to right). Don't
over tighten but tighten firmly. While you have the housing open, check the black slide switch where you push
it. Hair can build up here and cause the clipper to stop and start intermittently, clean out any hair with a small
tool/tooth pick. If the commutator is black instead of copper shiny it may be time for service to clean the
armature. The cord strain relief has two notches in it that fit over the hanger (down), the top side has 1 notch. Re-install
the top housing. Hold the housings together with one hand and turn over and re-install the 4 screws - again tighten firmly
and the two housings should just come together without any gaps. Long screws in top,
short ones in cord end. Congratulations!
How To Change an Andis AGC Blade Latch
Note that before replacing the latch make sure the spring in the hinge hasn’t
lost its blade holding power. With the hinge closed place a screwdriver under the tongue and pry up. If the tongue initially lifts without much resistance the hinge is too weak to hold a blade on firmly.
Replace the hinge. More common in Andis AG style hinges but the AGC hinge can get weak also.Remove
the two screws that hold the hinge and latch to the clipper. Set aside the two screws. There’s a metal spacer that sits
under the hinge/latch on AGC ‘s. Note the orientation of the spacer before you remove it. Close the hinge tongue and
remove the broken latch. There are two
holes in the new latch that fit on the two spring ends on the hinge. (The AndisAGC latch has a hole at the top near the hook, an Oster latch is similar
but has no hole and won’t fit on an Andis)
The hinge should be Closed before installing the new latch – hook should be down toward the hinge. Once you have both spring ends in the latch holes slide the latch forward so the hook catches
on the front of the hinge, it will stay there by itself if the hinge is closed. Reinstall the metal spacer
that goes under the hinge/latch assembly. Round cutout goes towards the drive tongue. Place the hinge/latch assembly
on top of the spacer, line up the holes and insert the screws. Make sure the screws are nice and tight but don't over
tighten, the screws are into plastic, not metal.
I mention this procedure because I've seen a lot of clippers where the latch wasn't installed properly and
the spring ends became bent over and the latch is loose and the bent spring may mean the hinge now has to be replaced too.
|Blade latch with broken hook and a new latch
Sometimes your clipper may be running
slow or not run at all. One issue might be a bad armature. The commutator in the picture below has 8 segments. Each
of these segments should measure in resistance within 5% of each other. Use
an ohm meter to check the resistance from one segment to the next.The most common cause of the failure is moisture (like blade
washes) getting inside the clipper. Keep that blade and clipper pointed downward, don't let liquid get inside!
A shorted armature will have little
or smaller resistance when measured from one segment to the next. Or you could have a burned out segment which will indicate
very high resistance from the bad segment to the adjacent segment. In these two cases the armature will have to be replaced.
Andis armatures are the most expensive part in the Andis AG/AGC clippers runing near $40. Often the switch board goes bad
when the armature fails or sometimes a bad switch board will take out the armature.
Sometimes it’s the field magnet that has gone bad due to
being dropped. If a magnet section gets broken or cracked the clipper can overhead
or run slow, even a small piece cracked can cause problems. Inspect the inside of the field. If
you see a crack or broken pieces, it’s junk and replace with a new field. This is not an expensive item.
Another common cause of slow running or failed Andis motors is getting blade wash inside the motor. This can short segments and can also destroy the switchboard making for
an expensive repair. The clipper must be kept pointed downward when using blade wash and kept down until the excess wash is
wiped off with a cloth rag or paper towel. Some pictures below will show some of the liquid inside.
|Andis Pulse Ion Cordless Clipper
|Uses RBC adjustable 5:1 blades
|Andis Replacement Switches
|Oster Parts + Andis Hinge
|Worn and New Oster Brushes
|blade wash inside clipper keep clipper front down!
|Blade wash ruined this armature!
clipper not running.
are several issues that can cause an Oster to stop running or run intermittently. The most common cause
is a break of a wire inside the cord. As the cord flexes in use a wire can break. This usually shows up as a intermittent
that happens when the clipper is in certain positions. The fix is to have the cord replaced.
Other times it can be that the switch nut has broken off or became
missing. This allows the switch to move inward and flexes the switch wires until one or more
switch wires breaks. If this happens on a 1 speed, the clipper will no longer run when switched on. Check for a missing switch nut. On a 2sp Oster, it may mean it will only run in 1
of the 2 speeds. The fix is to have the switch replaced and a new switch nut
installed. Check your switch nuts weekly and tighten the nut if it is
becoming loose. Dropping the clipper can break off the switch but this will be obvious as there won't be a toggle
to toggle! Note that on the 2 speed switch the outer two wires go together to the brass terminal. The center
switch wire goes to the 110 V power cord wire. The other power cord wire goes to the other brass terminal. See diagrams below.
Occasionally the rear swich terminals on an Oster clipper fail to make good contact and
the clipper stops running or runs intermittently. If neither of the 2 problems above apply this
may be the cause. Remove the 2 screws (#1 Phillips) and remove the switch cap. Check the 2 brass terminals inside the
clipper. They may need to be bent upward to make good contact with the two terminals inside the switch cap. See photo's below.
Note that there is a notch in the body of the clipper that matches a tab in the switch cap. When replacing the switch cap
do not over tighten the two screws. Adjusting these two screws in or out may make the clipper
run faster or slower. You want it to run at its highest speed. The reason this may affect the speed is that the Oster A5 uses sleeve
bronze bearings which need to be aligned front to back to run at maximum speed. In the shop these bearings are adjusted
by measuring the current draw when the clipper is running. For the clipper user, your ears will be your best asset.
Internally a bad coil or shorted
/ open armature can cause the Oster A5 to stop running. This is a problem that needs to be sent to a repair
shop to diagnose and repair.You can click on the photo's below for a larger image.
|Oster A5 rear
|Oster A5 1 speed switch wiring
| one and two speed switches
|Wiring of Oster 2 speed switch
|Oster A5 rear
Adjusting loose blade
or blade rattle due to a spread socket. The tabs on the socket can
become spread for several reasons. Sometimes the metal becomes cracked
and the tab can’t hold position. If the metal is cracked the socket has to be
replaced. Sometimes the blades are removed with a sideways twist which can spread the socket. If spread, the socket needs to be closed with pliers as shown in the photo below. A delicate touch
is needed. Squeeze a little and try fitting the blade on the clipper and try to twist side to side. If the twist is gone,
stop. If still loose, tighten a bit more. If too tight try using the palm of your hand to press the blade on. If that doesn’t
work carefully spread the taps outward with the pliers until the blade fits snug.
|Adjusting Socket Spread
|Adjusting Socket for up & down rock
The Oster A5. The picture
below is a new Oster case. The arrow points to several features. The gear post gets grease squeezed down it until grease comes out of both
the upper and lower holes. Make sure there is a gear washer at the bottom of the post before greasing
if the gear is removed. The drive lever fits over the lever post. In Conair clippers that
mimic the Oster A5 these two posts often become loose and the clipper won’t
clip. The case has to be replaced in this case. The thrust plate can get a hole worn in it. Inspect and rotate
the square thrust plate or reverse it. If a hole is all the way through this part should be replaced. The end of the armature
pushes into this thrust plate. Two felt pieces fit on each side of the lever and these get oiled only, no grease. The lever and link pieces get their holes greased before assembly.
If you can move the lever by hand back and forth the lever and link should be replaced.
Pictures of these parts below the case picture.
|Oster A5 hinge and latch
|Greasing and oiling the Oster gear box area
are made of carbon which conducts electricity. The
end of the carbon brush is curved to fit tightly against the motor armature. When replacing brushes
you must make sure the curve of the brush is orientated to match the curve of the armature
inside. Double check. A spring keeps the brush tightly contacting the armature. A cap (Oster and Andis
AG) keeps the spring in place. In the AGC an internal spring clip keeps the spring in place. Brushes become worn as the motor turns. The Oster brushes are softer and wear more quickly than Andis brushes.
Turbo brushes will wear faster due to the higher RPM so expect to replace them more often. As brushes wear carbon builds up
on the armature commutator. After a while the armature needs to be cleaned to achive maximum speed in a clipper.
Non-conducting cleaning materials should be used only.
To check or replace AGC brushes requires that the motor be removed. Remove the four screws
from the bottom of the case. Two short ones and two longs ones. Short in back, long in front. Make sure the clipper
is unplugged. Lift off the upper housing and note the position of the cord, hanger, switch, motor and so on. Pay attention because it all has to go back together. Pull off the two copper wires and that plug onto the switch
board then remove the two screws that hold the switch on. Next close the hinge first and remove the two screws that hold the
hinge and latch on and the keeper plate. Take note of the orientation of the parts before you remove
them. Lift out the motor and carefully unclip one of the two brush/spring covers. There is a small spring under the cover so go slow and be ready to catch the spring. remove the brush noting that the
copper wire attached to the brush is at the top. If the brush is ok reinstall the brush with the curve of the brush matching
the curve of the armature and the copper wire at the top so it fits in the slot. Use the wire to pull the brush all the way
in. Note that If you see any moisture on the brush you have a problem and the armature may be gone.
Moisture inside is not your friend. Carefully put the brush spring in next
and fit the brush/spring holder back on. You did note which direction the spring holders were facing right when you took them
off? If the brushes were worn out then put in new brushes instead of the old ones. Fit the motor back in the lower case, and
reinstall the parts and screws. Keeper first, then the hinge and latch. Put the switch board back in and then insert the two
screws that hold the switch and back of the motor to the lower housing. There should be a switch insulator on the switch.
It tends to fall off easily so look for it. Plug
in and test before closing up. Oh yes, the AGC hanger tends to fall out easily too. Make sure that's in place before putting
the upper housing on. Make sure the switch is in the off position and the switch position in the upper housing is also off
(back) before fitting the upper housing on. Hold the upper and lower housing tight (hanger
still in place?, cord fitting in right?) then put the two shorter screws in the back and the two longer screws in the
front and tighten but don't over tighten. Congratulations.
|Oster Clipmaster Large Animal
|Andis Delta Large Animal Clipper
|Stewart (Oster) Showmaster large animal clipper