Proper scissor sharpening
is more than grinding a new edge. A scissor should have proper "SET", be properly
"BALANCED", and the tips should close but
not gap or overlap past the cutting edge. Scissor screws must not loosen with use and finger rests, finger/sizing rings and
bumpers should be firmly attached and not damaged.
At Bruce's Sharpening scissors are cleaned, sharpened, balanced (fall adjusted) and set. Each scissor
is tested on single layer of tissue and adjusted until it cuts cleanly end to end. How long a scissor will stay sharp depends on how clean the hair is that you cut, dirty hair can
dull a scissor edge pretty quickly. Dropping a scissor can result in nicks in
an edge or bending of a blade. Either or both will cause the scissor to stop cutting and the edge and set will have to be
redone. A rubberized floor can help minimized damage. Convex edge scissors with their acute angle
edges will fail quicker than a bevel edge scissor.
For sending to Bruce's Sharpening
PO Box 41, Maxatawny, PA 19538 by USPS mail
For UPS or FedEx use 15868 Kutztown Road instead
of the PO Box.
prices see the Price List tab on left.
There are two basic kinds of scissors being
used by groomers and stylists. The older and most common is the bevel edge scissor
and it's the easiest to sharpen. In recent years the convex edge with a hollow shape
inside and convex outer edge have come in use, especially with stylists who wish to "slide cut". These require much
more work to sharpen and the cost to sharpen is therefore 2-3 times higher. In general grooming scissors are longer and have
wider blades while the stylist "shears" tend to be smaller in size. Cutting a long dog requires a larger longer
pair of scissors than a small human head does.
The Term "Shear" orginally identified large scissors such as carpet shears and other large
scissors used for heavy duty applications. As specialized scissors were developed for the hair stylist as opposed to
a "barber" the term "shear" was adopted by stylists to differentiate the different kind of cutting that
a stylist does over the old fashioned barber-pole hair cutting shops. Call them what you will, they all are designed to cut
You can left
click on the images below and elsewhere to get a larger image.
|Scissor sharpening Machines and accessories
These scissor grinders are made by Wolff
Industries and can handle every kind of scissor. Convex edge scissors are ground with 800 grit diamond wheels and then highly polished.
Bevel edge scissors are ground with 400 grit diamond wheels and polished. Special ceramic hones are used to establish the
"inside line" on hollow ground convex edge scissors. In the picture are also a handle bender, scissor set tool,
an anvil for tightening riveted scissors and scissor pliers for loosing and tightening frozen screws. I stock screws, bumpers,
finger rests and finger rings.
|Replacement sizers or cushinging rings
|Replacement Bumpers, Screws, Washers
|$12 set replacement shear blades
Flat hone versus "grinding"
This is an interesting topic for those who have been told that one or
the other is a better method to sharpen shears/scissors. Know
this. Your edge doesn't care!
A grinder uses a circular abrasive
wheel to "grind" away the dulled portion of your scissors. In my case it is a series of finer grits from coarse
to fine. A flat hone uses flat circular discs of what is basically sandpaper to abrade (grind) away the dulled portions of
your scissors. Like I wrote - your scissor edge doesn't care how it became sharp again. Flat honing tends to take longer than
using a grinding wheel, that's why flat honers charge much higher prices and to justify their higher prices and tell you about
how flat honing is so much better. A flat honer goes from coarse sandpaper discs to fine with each finer grit taking out the
scratches from the previous grit and then polishes the edge as a final step.For convex edge scissors the convex shape requires much more work than a bevel edge, but the only part that cuts
hair is the edge, not the convex shape behind it. Special convexing scissor holders allow "grinders" to convex shape
the scissor, just like the flat honers who have to have hand roll the scissor on the spinning disc to get a convex edge. How
good their hand motions are determines how well they can sharpen a convex scissor. The convexing jig on a grinder insures
repeatability each time the scissor is sharpened. Some of the newer flat hone machines have developed special clamps that
can eliminate some of the operator skill.
Convex edge scissors
use a much finer angle - typically 40-50 degrees - while bevel edge scissors are typically 25-35 degrees. The finer edge is
polished too because it looks pretty and gives the thin edge a bit longer life than an unpolished edge. The thinner the edge,
the quicker the edge will dull so polishing helps get that razor cut edge a bit more life than it would have otherwise. A
grinder also highly polishes a convex edge as a final step. Convex
edge scissors also require the "inside line" be maintained by honing this area of the scissor. Because of the design
of convex edge scissors the scissors have to be taken apart so the inside line can be honed from past the pivot point to the
tip. This has to be done properly in order for the edge to cut, just sharpening the outer edge isn't enough. Bevel edge scissors
do not have an inside line like a convex edge scissor so don't require they be taken apart and honed and this is why sharpening
bevel edge scissors can be much cheaper. As always, time is money.
Each method gets to the same end. The skill and knowledge of the operator is key to getting the best cutting edge
regardless of the method.